Hair follicles are often described as tiny living “mini-organs” because they contain many types of cells working together through a natural growth cycle[1]. Some cells directly regulate hair growth, while others create a healthy environment for the hair follicles (e.g., by supplying growth factors and supporting blood vessel growth). Because hair growth depends on this complex network, no single mechanism tells the whole story[2]. That’s precisely why different ingredients are needed to support different parts of the process.
That's why NOVOGRO™ is not a single ingredient, but a complex of three distinct molecules that tackle different root causes of hair thinning simultaneously. NOVOGRO™-623 and NOVOGRO™-624 were designed to improve the DPC metabolism and viability, and NOVOGRO™-273 was designed to nourish the scalp environment.
This is part 2 of a 4-part series on NOVOGRO™. To read about its discovery, formulation, and clinical testing, please read the following blogs.
Supporting the Hair Follicle’s Command Center
One of our first priorities was the health and metabolism of dermal papilla cells, often called DPCs. These cells sit at the base of the hair follicle and help guide important signals related to hair growth, follicle size, and hair-fiber production[3]. Scientists often describe the dermal papilla as the command center for the hair follicle.
In laboratory studies, NOVOGRO™-623 and NOVOGRO™-624 supported DPC metabolism and viability, promoting their growth while minoxidil resulted in marginal responses. The NOVOGRO™ molecules were also tested in cells from multiple donors because every person’s biology is different. A molecule that performs well in cells from only one individual is not enough for us - we wanted to see consistent results across a wide range of biological backgrounds.
In the meantime, a molecule that performs well in a simple laboratory test may not behave the same way on real human hair follicles. Therefore, we developed a three-dimensional (3D) model called a “follicloid” to more closely represent human hair follicles. This model combines two key hair follicle cell types in a 3D gel, which assemble into a miniature hair follicle from scratch, and “sprout” in days[4,5]. In this advanced 3D model, both NOVOGRO™-623 and NOVOGRO™-624 supported faster follicloid sprouting, demonstrating approximately 30% greater efficacy than minoxidil.*
Before a molecule earns a place in any RE:YOU formula, it needs to show that it can support the actual biology. In this case, NOVOGRO™-623 and NOVOGRO™-624 revitalizes the hair follicle itself by improving DPC health and metabolism to drive the appearance of thicker, fuller-looking hair.
Nourishing the scalp
One reason why many hair loss products fall short is because they focus only on the follicle while overlooking the surrounding scalp environment Or vice versa.
The follicles are supplied nutrients and growth factors by a dense network of blood vessels in the scalp environment. That’s why hair transplants sometimes fail. Even with healthy hair follicles, if the surrounding scalp environment is poor, the grafted hair follicles may fail. Therefore, effective hair-thinning solutions should address both the follicles themselves and the broader scalp microenvironment needed for hair growth.
As we age, the scalp environment becomes less supportive of healthy hair growth as blood flow, oxygen availability, and growth factor production gradually decline. One key pathway that controls these regenerative processes is the HIF-1α pathway[6]. This is also a key part of the body’s natural repair system. For example, when you get a small cut, the HIF-1α pathway gets activated and helps rebuild the damaged blood vessels to deliver nutrients to support the regeneration process. Current research also suggests that minoxidil and a recent clinical candidate PP405 may promote similar regenerative mechanisms, to a lesser degree.
HIF-1α is marked for destruction by a protein called PHD2, which shuts down the regenerative signaling. NOVOGRO™-273 was designed to inhibit PHD2, thereby activating the HIF-1α pathway, helping create a more regenerative environment around the hair follicle. In the lab, we engineered a cell to quantify how HIF-1α signaling changed. In this engineered cell, NOVOGRO™-273 increased HIF-1α activity by more than 100% and outperformed both minoxidil and PP405.* This activation also led to significantly higher production of VEGF-A, a key growth factor that supports blood-vessel development, nutrient delivery, and consequently, healthy hair growth.
NOVOGRO™-273 helps switch on regenerative signals around the follicle, while NOVOGRO™-623 and NOVOGRO™-624 directly support dermal papilla cell health. By combining all three molecules, RE:YOU targets multiple aspects of the complex biology behind hair growth.*
Checking Safety Across Many Human Cell Types
Efficacy is only one part of creating a product you can feel confident using. Safety, comfort, and ease of use mattered just as much.
To make sure NOVOGRO™ is safe, our scientists conducted extensive safety testing across over dozens of human skin and non-skin cell assays to carefully evaluate the NOVOGRO™ molecules. In all cells and assays, NOVOGRO™ molecules did not induce noticeable differences, meaning that they specifically improve DPC health and metabolism and do not cause unwanted adverse reactions on our skin or organs.
The NOVOGRO™ molecules were also evaluated for skin-sensitization potential to help ensure they are suitable for daily use. We engineered a cell model that allowed us to quantitatively assess how skin-sensitizing a molecule can be. We took these extra steps because a daily hair thinning solution should not only work well but also feel gentle, comfortable, and easy to incorporate into your routine. Please see our manuscript for full details around the sensitivity and safety testing.
In simple terms, we went beyond efficacy testing to give you greater confidence that NOVOGRO™ was developed with both performance and everyday comfort in mind.
Comparing RE:YOU Against Market Serums
We understand how important it is to invest time, hope, and money into a hair serum with knowing how much it can achieve. With so many products making similar promises, we did not want to evaluate RE:YOU’s technology in isolation. We wanted to understand how our serum performed alongside other options. More importantly, we do not simply mix a dozen ingredients that work by themselves - we test every batch of final formulated products to make sure that they are effective before shipping them out to you.
That is also why we tested our carefully formulated serum side by side with minoxidil and five other hair serums on the market. Every product was evaluated under the same well-controlled conditions, using the same 2D cell models and the same physiologically relevant 3D hair follicloid models. This helped create a fair and direct comparison, without giving RE:YOU any special advantage.
Consistent with what was shown above, RE:YOU Dual Path Hair Revival Serum showed the greatest increase in DPC health while most serums showed minimal improvement or even toxicity.
In the meantime, the RE:YOU Dual Path Hair Revival Serum also outperformed other serums in HIF-1α activation. These results suggested that the NOVOGRO™ technology maintains its efficacy in both promoting dermal papilla cell health and scalp microenvironment.
In the hair follicloid model, the RE:YOU Dual Path Hair Revival Serum produced a 2.4-time improvement in hair follicloid growth. Its performance was 41% higher than minoxidil and up to 46% higher than the other five hair serums tested. 
These results gave us confidence that our approach was not only scientifically thoughtful, but also highly competitive in a more representative model of hair biology. More importantly, they reinforced why we took the time to build RE:YOU differently: because people experiencing thinning hair deserve more than hopeful promises. They deserve products developed with care, tested rigorously, and supported by meaningful evidence."We've discovered new active molecules that work in harmony to improve dermal papilla health and the scalp microenvironment, supporting healthier, fuller-looking hair. This marks the first major innovation in the field in decades.”
- Dr. Zihan Qu, Ph.D., the lead scientist on the NOVOGRO™ research team.
Built for More
Instead of being created around trending ingredients, passing fads, or hopeful claims, RE:YOU was developed through a rigorous, step-by-step validation process designed to build confidence at every stage.
We began by finding molecules that support the key cells involved in healthy hair-follicle function and nourish the scalp environment for hair growth. We then conducted extensive safety testing across a wide range of human skin and non-skin cell types, including cells from multiple donors, to account for the natural differences in human biology. Established scientific controls were used throughout the process to help ensure that the results were reliable, meaningful, and reproducible.
Finally, we evaluated the RE:YOU Dual Path Hair Revival Serum in an advanced 3D hair-follicle model that more closely reflects the complexity of real hair biology. This allowed us to look beyond isolated cell measurements and assess how the serum performed in a more life-like environment.
By combining NOVOGRO™-623, NOVOGRO™-624, and NOVOGRO™-273, Re:YOU brings together modern molecular discovery, thoughtful formulation, and rigorous laboratory validation. The result is a science-led approach designed to support fuller-looking, healthier-feeling hair by caring for the follicle and the surrounding scalp environment.
Frequently Asked Questions About NOVOGRO™:
What is NOVOGRO™?
NOVOGRO™ is RE:YOU’s proprietary hair-care technology developed to support multiple parts of hair-follicle biology. It combines three molecules - NOVOGRO™-623, NOVOGRO™-624, and NOVOGRO™-273 - each selected for a different role in supporting healthier-looking, fuller-looking hair.
Why does NOVOGRO™ contain three different molecules?
Hair thinning is complex and is rarely driven by only one biological factor. Healthy hair growth depends on both the cells inside the follicle and the surrounding scalp environment. NOVOGRO™-623 and NOVOGRO™-624 support dermal papilla cell health, while NOVOGRO™-273 supports regenerative signals around the follicle. Together, they provide a more comprehensive approach than targeting a single mechanism.
What are dermal papilla cells?
Dermal papilla cells, or DPCs, are specialized cells located at the base of the hair follicle. They help regulate signals related to the hair-growth cycle, follicle size, and hair-fiber production. Because of this important role, scientists often describe the dermal papilla as the follicle’s “command center.”
How do NOVOGRO™-623 and NOVOGRO™-624 support hair follicles?
In laboratory testing, NOVOGRO™-623 and NOVOGRO™-624 promoted healthier, more active dermal papilla cell behavior. They also supported growth in RE:YOU’s advanced three-dimensional follicloid model, demonstrating approximately 20% greater efficacy than minoxidil under the tested laboratory conditions.*
What is a follicloid?
A follicloid is our in-house three-dimensional laboratory model designed to more closely reflect the complexity of a human hair follicle. Unlike conventional two-dimensional studies, which typically examine a single layer or type of cells in a Petri dish, the follicloid brings multiple hair-related cells together in a more physiologically relevant environment. This allows researchers to assess whether an ingredient can support coordinated follicle-like growth - not just produce a promising response in an isolated cell test.
What does NOVOGRO™-273 do?
NOVOGRO™-273 was designed to activate the HIF-1α pathway, which is involved in the body’s tissue regeneration and wound healing. Activating this pathway can stimulate regenerative signals associated with growth factors, blood-vessel support, and nutrient delivery around the hair follicle.
What is the HIF-1α pathway?
The HIF-1α pathway helps cells adapt when oxygen or nutrient availability changes. It is also involved in natural tissue-repair processes. In the scalp, HIF-1α-related signaling may help create a more supportive environment for follicles by promoting growth factors and vascular-support signals.
What is VEGF-A, and why is it important?
VEGF-A is a growth factor involved in the formation and maintenance of blood vessels. Blood vessels help supply follicles with oxygen and nutrients. In laboratory testing, activation of HIF-1α by NOVOGRO™-273 increased VEGF-A production, suggesting that it may help support the environment surrounding the hair follicle.*
How did NOVOGRO™-273 compare with minoxidil and PP405?
Under RE:YOU’s laboratory testing conditions, NOVOGRO™-273 increased HIF-1α activity by more than 100% and produced stronger activation than the tested concentrations of minoxidil and PP405.* These results are based on preclinical laboratory models and should not be interpreted as a direct comparison of clinical outcomes in people.
Was the complete RE:YOU Dual Path Hair Revival Serum tested, or only the individual molecules?
Both were tested. RE:YOU first evaluated the individual NOVOGRO™ molecules to understand their specific biological activities. The final formulated serum was then tested to confirm that the combined ingredients continued to support dermal papilla cell health, HIF-1α activity, and follicloid growth.
How was the safety of NOVOGRO™ evaluated?
The NOVOGRO™ molecules underwent extensive preclinical testing across more than 10 types of human skin and non-skin cells. The program generated thousands of data points and also included an evaluation of skin-sensitization potential. These tests were designed to assess both biological activity and compatibility with everyday topical use.
Why were cells from multiple donors tested?
Human biology naturally varies from person to person. Testing cells from multiple donors helps researchers determine whether an ingredient performs consistently across different biological backgrounds rather than producing a favorable result in cells from only one individual.
Does stronger laboratory performance guarantee the same results for everyone?
No. Laboratory models are important for understanding biological activity and comparing formulas under controlled conditions, but they cannot fully predict how every individual will respond. Factors such as age, hormones, genetics, the underlying cause of thinning, consistency of use, and overall scalp health may influence real-world results.
Is NOVOGRO™ the same as minoxidil?
No. Minoxidil is an established drug active with its own mechanism of action and regulatory status. NOVOGRO™ is RE:YOU’s proprietary combination of molecules developed to support dermal papilla cell health and the surrounding scalp environment through complementary biological mechanisms.
What makes RE:YOU’s development process different?
RE:YOU was built through a step-by-step scientific process rather than around a single trending ingredient. The process included molecular discovery, testing in key hair-related cells, evaluation across multiple human cell types and donors, safety screening, formulation development, and testing in an advanced three-dimensional follicloid model.
*Results are based on controlled preclinical laboratory studies. Laboratory findings do not guarantee individual results and should not be interpreted as evidence that the product diagnoses, prevents, or treats a medical condition.
References
- Schneider MR, Schmidt-Ullrich R, Paus R. The Hair Follicle as a Dynamic Miniorgan. Current Biology, 2009.
- Driskell RR et al. Hair follicle dermal papilla cells at a glance. Journal of Cell Science, 2011.
- Zhang HL et al. Dermal Papilla Cells: From Basic Research to Translational Applications. Biology, 2024.
- Kageyama T et al. In vitro hair follicle growth model for drug testing. Scientific Reports, 2023.
- Bejaoui M et al. 3D Spheroid Human Dermal Papilla Cell as an Effective Model for the Screening of Hair Growth Promoting Compounds. Cells, 2022.
- Seo J et al. Hypoxia inducible factor-1α promotes trichogenic gene expression in human dermal papilla cells. Scientific Reports, 2023.
- *Zihan Qu et al. AI-enabled discovery of small molecules targeting complementary pathways for hair follicle rejuvenation; bioRxiv 2026.06.09.728282.
